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As the old saying goes – there’s more than one way to unclog a toilet. OK, we just made that up but we’re here to prove it’s true. Sure, we love our plunger, but what if you don’t have one? Have you tried soap or baking soda?

Follow our detailed instructions for how to unclog a toilet with a plunger but stick around for plunger-less toilet clog hacks too. One way or another, we’ll get your toilet unclogged and return things to business as usual.

How to Plunge a Toilet

The best way to unclog a toilet is to learn to use a flange plunger properly. Flange plungers are made specifically for plunging toilets. The “flange” is an extended, sleeve-like rubber flap built into the underside of the plunger’s rubber cup. Insert this flange directly into the toilet bowl’s drain hole to ensure a tighter seal than a conventional cup plunger.

1. Prepare the area around the toilet

Plunging can get messy. Put on rubber gloves and lay out towels or plastic wrap to catch spills.

2. Level out the amount of water in the bowl

To maximize plunging effectiveness, you’ll want to fill the toilet bowl about halfway full with water (enough so that you can fully submerge the plunger cup).

3. Place the flange into the toilet drain

Maneuver the flange until it fits snugly into the top of the toilet bowl’s drain. Insert the flange at an angle so the flap fills with water as you lower it.

4. Fit the cup over the drain

Fit the cup of the plunger snugly over the drain while keeping the flange inserted. As you create the seal, let water from the bowl under the cup. The water between the cup and the drain will help generate suction pressure to unclog.

5Position and “test” your plunger seal

When you’ve created a seal with both the flange and cup, “test” it before getting started. Depress the plunger straight down and then tug it back up the way you would to unclog normally, but do so slowly. Make sure the seal stays in place throughout the process.

5a. (Optional) Apply petroleum jelly around the cup of the plunger

If you’re having trouble maintaining a seal, try applying petroleum jelly to the cup. Petroleum jelly will help keep the cup from sliding off of the bottom of the bowl.

6. Plunge forcefully 5 to 6 times

Push down on the plunger forcefully to drive the cup down and drive the flange into the drain, then pull the cup back up to “reset.” Repeat this motion repeatedly and steadily, but not too forcefully or rapidly, for 20 seconds.

7. Check water level in toilet bowl

After plunging for thirty seconds, quickly break the seal and remove the plunger. Listen for a gurgling sound from the drain (a good sign) and check the water level in the toilet bowl. If nearly all the water drained from the bowl, then you’ve probably cleared the clog.

7a. (Optional) Repeat plunging as necessary

If the water in the toilet bowl didn’t drain, repeat the plunging process a few more times. Add or bail water as necessary until your bowl is half full before you start again.

8. Test to see if the clog is gone

Before you test your flush, remove the tank lid. Depress the handle as usual and watch the toilet bowl closely. If you haven’t cleared the clog, then the toilet won’t flush, and the bowl will start filling with water. Prevent an overflow by manually closing the toilet’s flapper.

We recommend you only re-try your plunging up to five times. Plunging for too long could damage your toilet, and some clogs are too stubborn for even the most effective plumbing.

How to Unclog a Toilet Without a Plunger

Worst case scenario: you only have one toilet in your home, it’s clogged, you’re without a plunger and you have a dinner party starting in two hours. Stay cool. We’ve got a few more of Mike’s diamonds to get that toilet flushing again.

How to Unclog a Toilet with Dish Soap

Dish soap has natural properties that break down grease and grime in solids. It can also serve as a lubricant to get things moving.

Simply squirt a generous cup or so of your favorite soap into your toilet’s drain. Follow the soap up with a bucket of hot (not boiling) water. Water that is too hot may crack the porcelain. Wait 30 minutes and check. Repeat if necessary.

How to Unclog a Toilet with Baking Soda

Sprinkle a cup of baking soda around your toilet’s drain. Slowly add two cups of white vinegar. Allow the chemical reaction an hour to reach the clog and work its magic. You could follow up with a bucket of hot water as mentioned above. Repeat the process if necessary.

How to Unclog a Toilet with Poop in It

Yep, we said it, but that’s the way it goes. Sometimes after your uncle has spent the better part of the morning in your bathroom, you have a very unpleasant clog.

The secret here is Coca Cola. Not for your uncle, for your toilet. Turns out, coke has some awesome acids that double as unclogging agents. The carbonation also helps by putting pressure on the clog.

Pour a can or half liter bottle of coke into your toilet and then quickly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. This will help keep the pressure in. After the hour, enough dissolving should have taken place to allow a normal flush.

Unclogging LA’s Toilets the Right Way

If you’re dealing with a stubborn clog that won’t budge, then call Mike Diamond. Our expert plumbers have yet to meet a clog they couldn’t clear. 

The post How to Unclog a Toilet appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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Before 1902, humans adopted creative ways of staying cool during hot summers. The ancient Egyptians hung wet reed mats in their windows that created a cooling effect when the wind blew through. Ancient Romans went so far as to pump cold water from aqueducts through the walls of elite homes.

These days you need only turn your thermostat dial for sweet heat relief in your home. But what exactly happens when you turn that magic dial? And how do you fix your AC when it doesn’t click on? Mike Diamond is the fresh smelling man with the answers to all things cool. We’ll cover the parts of a home ac system and explain how the air conditioning system in your house works. If your AC isn’t working, we’ll troubleshoot the common reasons why.

Who invented Air Conditioning (and the summer blockbuster)?

The man credited with inventing air conditioning as we know it is Willis Carrier. At the turn of the 20th century, he had an epiphany while standing on a train platform. He realized that humidity could be removed from air causing it to feel colder. Willis built a system of ice chilled coils that kept mills and printing companies cool during hot industrial workdays.

Stuart Cramer invented a ventilation device around the same time that was used in textile plants to distribute cool vapor to hot air. He was also the person to coin the term “air conditioning.” In 1925 he invented a more efficient version of his device for a movie theater. Soon his device was in theaters across the country. Ever since, Americans have flocked to the movies to escape the summer heat and thus was born the summer blockbuster season.

How Does Air Conditioning Work?

Modern air conditioning works via the physical principal of phase transition. This law states that when a liquid converts to a gas, it absorbs heat energy. Like when you boil water to create steam.

The liquid in this instance is a refrigerant or chemical compound that evaporates and condenses over and over to cool your home. The refrigerant starts as a liquid that travels through an evaporation coil inside your home. As the liquid evaporates it absorbs heat and, in this case, that heat is from warm air from your home. As the heat is removed, the resulting cool air is distributed back into your home.

The used refrigerant gas is then sent to your air conditioner compressor – that’s the big unit outside – where it is compressed back into a liquid. The hot air that is a byproduct of the process (remember phase transition) is vented outside and the condenser aids the compressor in sending the liquid refrigerant back to the evaporator coil where the cycle begins all over again.

How HVAC Systems Work

HVAC stands for heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Your home’s central air takes advantage of the existing ducts and vents in your home that are also used by your furnace during colder months.

After warm air travels over the evaporation coil and is cooled, fans blow the chilled air through your ducts and vents to reach every room of your home. This network delivers cold air evenly and efficiently throughout your home.

The thermostat connected to your HVAC system regulates all temperatures for both your heating and air conditioning. Each system responds based on the setting you input. Having one central control makes it easy to stay comfortable all year long.  

Why Won’t My Air Conditioner Work?

Like any piece of equipment, air conditioners are subject to break down and failure. Common reasons air conditioners malfunction include:

No power.Blown fuse or tripped circuit.No signal from the thermostat.Too hot outside to keep up.Dirty or blocked air condenser.Dirty air filter.Broken fan.Problems with refrigerant.Unit not the right size for your home.Older unit (10+ years).Leaky air ducts.

Some of these issues are easier to address than others. If your air conditioner is not working, make sure its receiving power. Check that the circuit isn’t tripped and that your thermostat has fresh batteries. Then make sure your filter is clean and check your compressor for obstructions like brush or grass. If you’re still having problems, it may be time to have a professional technician look at it.

ir Conditioner Repair Service for Los Angeles

Mike Diamond knows air conditioning and HVAC systems. When things heat up, don’t lose your cool. Call or contact Mike Diamond for fast, reliable air conditioner service in Los Angeles and the surrounding area.

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A flickering light bulb is the electrical equivalent of a dripping faucet. It may not seem like a big deal but soon enough it will start chipping away at your sanity. Before you throw the lamp and the table it was on out the window, let us diagnose the issue.

Flickering lights don’t have to be your dim future when you keep your home’s electricity working great. Once you figure out what’s causing the flickering, you may be able fix the problem yourself. Here’s a list of possible reasons why different lights may flicker and how to fix the problem.

1.Does Your Light Bulb Have A Loose Connection?

The most obvious and easily fixed reason why your light bulb is flickering is that it’s not properly seated in its socket. If this is the case, it’ll periodically disconnect from its power supply.  When the bulb flickers quickly and repetitively, it’s continually re-connecting and disconnecting from the power in the lamp. If the light flickers when you nudge the lamp, then the bulb is probably loose.

Fixing a loose bulb is hopefully as easy it sounds, and you just need to tighten it. Once it’s fully tightened, the bulb’s receiver should be properly connected with the lamp’s power supply. To tighten your bulb, simply make sure the bulb is cool enough to touch and turn it clockwise in its socket. Don’t try to force the tightening; if it’s not easy to turn, the issue may lie elsewhere.

2. Is Your Light Bulb Faulty?

If the bulb is tight but still flickers constantly, it could be faulty or burned out. Incandescent light bulbs can stop working correctly for all kinds of reasons. Contact problems, faulty wiring connections, worn-out receptacles, or a bad filament can all cause flickering. Often, these problems occur as the light bulb ages. They could also happen as the result of wear-and-tear, improper voltage, or bad wiring inside the fixture.

Older fluorescent lights won’t turn on sometimes and are more prone to flicker if they are dying. You can try rotating a bulb in its fixture to create a better connection, but chances are, it needs to be replaced.

Replacing light bulbs is easy and relatively cheap. As long as you tightened the new bulb correctly, your flickering should stop. If not, read on.

3. Is Your Light Bulb Fixture Causing it to Flicker?

An easy way to check if your light fixture is the problem is to remove the light bulb and try it in a different fixture. If it works, it may indicate that the first fixture is the problem. Over time sockets can wear out and the metal components no longer make a secure connection. The internal wiring could also be faulty.

A worn out fixture will need to be repaired or replaced. If the fixture is connected to your home, you may wish to have a professional electrician make the repair or replacement.

4. Is the Light Switch or Circuit Causing Your Lights to Flicker?

If it’s not the bulb or the light fixture, it may be that your home’s wiring is the reason why your light bulbs are flickering. A bad connection in your fixture’s on/off switch may result in irregular flickering. If you wiggle the switch and the light flickers, you’ve likely found the problem and you can replace that switch.

If you experience multiple lights flickering, especially when you have other appliances running, it may be an overloaded circuit. Your home is wired on different circuits – usually room by room – that deliver a finite amount of electrical current. If you have too many items plugged in or are drawing too much power from the circuit, it may affect your lights. You’ve probably seen this when you turn on a high-power appliance like a blender and the kitchen lights dim.

If your home’s wiring is older, it may not be keeping up with increased power demand. A professional electrician can replace your service panel and supply your home with more amperage to meet your needs.

5. Why Is Your LED Light Blinking on and Off?

You’ve upgraded your home to more efficient and longer lasting LED bulbs. Good plan. But are you using a dimmer switch? Not all LED bulbs are dimmable. Only certain kinds that are labeled “dimmable” will work, especially with an older dimmer switch.

You can replace the light bulb with the proper type, but you may need to upgrade your dimmer switch as well. A professional electrician can advise you on the best way to upgrade your lights and switches to make sure they are compatible and function properly.

How Many Times Do You Need to Change Your Light Bulbs?

If flickering bulbs and lights that don’t work properly have left you in the dark, give Mike Diamond a call. We’re your L.A. area experts for all your home plumbing and electrical needs. And even when you can’t see, we’re your “smell good plumber!”

The post Why Is That Light Bulb Flickering? appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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There’s only one main difference between dish soap and dishwashing detergent, but it’s a big one. Dishwashing detergent does not create suds, but dish soap does. The idea of a dishwasher overflowing with bubbles might paint a funny picture but it’s also big, messy problem. If you accidentally put dish soap in dishwasher once, it’s a headache. If it happens more than once, the soap scum build up could eventually damage your dishwasher.

If the worst happens and you find yourself facing an endless soap avalanche, don’t fret. We’ll tell you how to clean out a dishwasher with dish soap in it. More importantly we’ll tell you how to restore your dishwasher to prevent future problems. If your dishwasher doesn’t work properly after these steps, call the pros at Mike Diamond to help.

How to Fix Dishwasher with Dish Soap in It

First things first, stop the dishwasher immediately. Cancel the wash cycle. If you’re lucky, the suds haven’t quite overflowed just yet. The sooner you turn off the dishwasher, the better your chance of keeping the suds out of the machine’s inner workings.

Once you’ve canceled the cycle, your dishwasher should start draining. It won’t clear everything out, but it’ll make the clean-up process a little less damp.

Clean up any overflow.

If you couldn’t stop the cycle in time, you’ll have some cleaning up to do. Don’t let water sit and seep into cabinetry or floorboards. Use a wet mop to clean up the overflow. Since the mixture is water and soap, wiping it up with dry towels can leave residue behind.

Silver lining: your floor is now clean.

Take out the dishes.

Before you clear out the pipes and drain, you’re going to have more sopping up to do. Open the dishwasher after it finishes its initial draining. Remove the dishes and move them into the sink.

Rinse off the dishes in the sink to remove any scummy residue that might have clung to them during the overflow. Consider washing the dishes by hand just this once, while your dishwasher is… recovering. Otherwise, just rinse them off and leave them in the sink. After you’re done cleaning, you can simply put the dirty dishes back in the washer for another cycle!

How to get suds out of the dishwasher.

This is the labor-intensive part. You’re going to have to rinse out and dry the inside of your dishwasher. If you don’t clean it fully, you’ll continue to have problems with suds and soap scum.

Use a small bowl or pan and repeatedly fill it with clean water to rinse away bubbles. If your dishwasher is close enough to your sink, you could use your sprayer to rinse it out.

Keep rinsing until bubbles don’t appear when you pour the water into the inside and bottom of the appliance. After you’ve rinsed enough, use towels to wipe down and dry out any remaining water. You may have to remove the drawers to complete this step.

Turn on the rinse cycle and let it run.

You don’t have to do a full cycle. Run the rinse cycle for three to five minutes. It should be enough to remove any remaining suds. If you’ve done everything else listed here, you should be free of dish soap in your dishwasher. If there are suds, the rinse cycle will wash out any remaining residue. Once that’s done, your dishwasher should be back in working condition.

Don’t Put Dishwashing Soap in Dishwasher!

Now you know what happens if you put dish soap in the dishwasher. Hopefully you’ve successfully flushed your dishwasher after the soap suds fiasco and lived to tell the tale. The next time this or any other plumbing emergency happens give us a call. The team at Mike Diamond is happy to service your dishwasher to ensure you have clean dishes for a long time.

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There are all kinds of reasons why your water heater isn’t producing enough hot water. It could be too small, the settings may be wrong, or there could be a more serious problem. Sediment buildup, broken dip tubes or heating elements, and leaks can all steal your hot water away.

By determining exactly how you’re running out of hot water, you can home in on the problem. Find the description that most closely matches your hot water issue below to find out what’s going on. Once you know why you’re running out of hot water so quickly, you can try to solve it yourself or you can call in the Smell Good Cavalry:

Your water comes out in spurts of hot and cold

If your hot water seems to run hot and cold randomly regardless of what you tell it to do, then there may be sediment build-up in your water heater’s tank. Sediment builds up faster when you have hard water, when your pipes are old, or if your anode rod is worn out. Sediment build-up leaves less space for hot water in the tank. It can absorb too much of the heat generated by the heating element.

First, try flushing and draining the tank. We recommend either doing it yourself or having the pros perform a full drain and flush around once per year. If you keep running out of hot water even after a flush, then it’s possible that too much sediment has built up. Unfortunately, the only way to solve that problem is to replace your tank. In fact, you should replace it quickly… or it could, uh, explode.

You keep running out of hot water after a very short period of time

Most water heaters have two heating elements: one at the top, and one at the bottom. The top heating element repeatedly re-heats the water near the top of the tank. The bottom heating element heats all the water added to the tank to store it at a constant hot temperature. At least, that’s what it should be doing.

If your bottom heating element stops working, then it isn’t heating most of the water in your tank properly. Instead, you’ll be forced to rely on the small quantity of water your top element heats. When that water runs out, your water heater will send you unheated water instead… which makes for the nasty shower surprise you’re all too familiar with. To fix this problem, replace your tank’s bottom water heater element. Give us a call and we’ll take care of it fast.

Your water never gets above a lukewarm temperature

The water heater’s dip tube pushes the cold water to the bottom of the tank. There, the lower element heats it before you use it. If your water heater’s dip tube breaks, then all the replacement cold water added to the tank mixes with the hot water already inside. As a result, you get a lukewarm mixture of hot and cold water that satisfies nobody, like a reverse Goldilocks.

If your dip tube is broken, you may discover small chunks of plastic in your showerhead or sink strainers. Take off your showerhead and look for debris. If you find any, then you could try to test and replace your dip tube yourself, or call in the pros. Replacing a dip tube is relatively cheap, quick, and easy.

You’re running out of hot water before everyone is finished with it

Does this sound familiar? You’re locked in a constant competition against everyone in your home to seize the bathroom first thing in the morning. If you’re unlucky enough not to be the early bird, then you’d better shower quickly or risk a rude (and cold) awakening. And forget about showering while someone’s washing dishes, running the dishwasher, or doing the laundry – that’s a one way ticket to your own private Antarctica.

Your water heater is probably simply too small. Conventional water heaters can supply an amount of water equal to the size of their storage tank. If you use more water than the tank can provide, then your heater spends 20 to 30 minutes reheating new water. If your water heater is too small for your needs, you’ll have to replace it with a bigger one.

You’re not getting any hot water at all

Did you know that your water heater has a thermostat that dictates how hot your water gets? It works just like any other thermostat: you tell it how hot you want your water, and your elements heat to that temperature. If you’re not getting any hot water at all, then your thermostat may be malfunctioning… or simply set improperly!

Most water heaters have a reset button. Troubleshooting your thermostat is as easy as clicking that button. In case that doesn’t work, locate the thermostat itself and make sure it’s set correctly. If you still have the owner’s manual, the manufacturer should have included the settings inside. If you’re like 99% of people and you have no idea where that manual is, find the settings online. Reset to the heat you want, then try resetting again. If that still doesn’t do the trick, give us a call.

If you don’t see your particular issue listed here, don’t worry. These scenarios cover the common problems, but they’re by no means exhaustive. If you still don’t know what to do after either failing to find your problem or trying our proposed solution to no avail, you still have your trump card: us.

Whatever the strange, unique, unlikely reason you’re running out of hot water, Mike Diamond’s experts will find it and will provide a solution. We’ve yet to be stumped by even the most outlandish of hot water hang ups – and we’ve seen some doozies. Next time your shower takes an unpleasant turn for the freezing, just give us a call right away. Or at least… as soon as you get out and warm up.

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Garbage disposals usually leak from three places: the top, the pipe connections, and the bottom. To find out if your disposal is leaking, check each common place where leaks start. Use a flashlight to check for condensation, puddling, and other signs of water accumulation on or beneath your disposal.

Each common garbage disposal leak happens for a different reason. Usually, a minor component is simply too loose or it’s worn out. By finding where your garbage disposal is leaking, you’ll be able figure out why it’s leaking and how you can fix it. Here’s everything you need to know to fix your garbage disposal’s leak quickly and accurately.

Where is my garbage disposal leaking from?

Garbage disposals commonly leak from four different places:

The sink flange at the top of the garbage disposal. This connects the disposal to the top of the sink.The dishwasher hose connection on the side of the disposal. This is where the flexible plastic dishwasher hose connects to the disposal.The drain line connection, also located on the side of the disposal. This is where the main drain pipe connects to the disposal via curving metal or PVC plastic pipes.The reset button on the bottom of the disposal. This button deactivates the disposal if it jams or the motor overloads.

How can I tell if my garbage disposal is leaking?

First, look for the obvious signs. Check under your kitchen sink for puddling water, dampness, dripping, or a musty smell. If you see any signs of leaking, check to make sure it isn’t the sink itself or the sink’s p-trap. Then, grab a flashlight and bucket to look for each common garbage disposal leak.

Turn off the garbage disposal and unplug it completely. Then, fill up the sink with water about halfway. If you have food coloring, add it to the water to make the leak easier to spot. You can locate the leak in the following ways:

The sink flange: Check for dripping or water accumulation around the top and bottom of the ring of the flange. Use the flashlight to look for water coloring and feel for wetness by hand.The dishwasher hose connection: To properly look for this leak, you’ll have to run your dishwasher. Start the dishwasher without turning back on the disposal. Watch the hose as water runs from the dishwasher drain through it into the disposal. Pay particular attention to the connections between the hose and disposal.The drain line connection: Check the connection between the drain line and disposal. Pay particular attention to the screws that fasten the line to the disposal and to the gap between the disposal and drain line.The reset button: The reset button is in the center of the bottom of the disposal unit. Shine the flashlight under the disposal to look for it. Check for a slow, constant dripping or water accumulation beneath the unit.

Why is my garbage disposal leaking?

Each of the four common leaks outlined so far have different causes and fixes. Here’s where your leak is coming from and what caused it:

The sink flange: The sink flange is held in place by plumber’s putty and bolts. If the putty deteriorates or the bolts rust or loosen, the watertight seal between the flange and sink may break, leading to your leak.The dishwasher hose connection: If the dishwasher hose is leaking, it’s usually because the screws holding it to the disposal have loosened. This can happen because of rust or simply as a result of time and jostling. It’s also possible the drain hose or clamp are leaking.The drain line connection: If the drain line is leaking, then either the screws securing to the disposal have worn out, or the rubber gasket inside the mounting assembly itself is leaking. Remove the screws, take down the drain line, and check the gasket inside for signs of wear and tear.The reset button: If your garbage disposal is leaking from either the reset button or any other part of the bottom of the disposal, then it probably means a seal inside the unit itself has worn out. This can happen when a garbage disposal gets old.

How to Fix a Leaking Garbage Disposal

Now that you’ve identified the where and why, you’re prepared to fix the actual problem. Luckily, fixing a leaking garbage disposal is usually pretty straightforward–even if the fix isn’t always what you’d like to hear:

The sink flange: Unscrew the bolts and check for rust or other deterioration, and replace them if you find any. Then, remove the flange, scrap off the putty holding it in place, and reapply fresh putty. Turn back on the water to test the seal.The dishwasher hose connection: First, try using a screwdriver to tighten the screws on the metal clamp connecting the hose to the disposal. If the screws don’t seem to tighten properly, consider replacing them. It’s also possible the hose itself is leaking, in which case you’ll have to replace it.The drain line connection: You may be able to fix this leak by tightening the connection between the pipe and disposal. Try un-attaching and reattaching the pipe if tightening doesn’t work. If you’re still having issues, try replacing the screws or gasket. You could also use a pipe clamp and tighten with a screwdriver.The reset button: Unfortunately, if your garbage disposal leaks from the bottom, then it’s probably simply time to remove the garbage disposal and replace it. If one internal seal is worn out, after all, then the rest are probably getting there too.

By following the directions above, you should be able to identify and fix just about any garbage disposal leak you’re dealing with. Of course, “should be able to” doesn’t necessarily mean will be able to. Sometimes unusual leaks happen. These leaks can be tough to figure out, much less fix!

Whether you have a weird leak you can’t get a handle on, or you just need to ask some questions, feel free to call Mike Diamond any time. We’ve got everything we need to handle any garbage disposal problem you can throw at us.

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There are thousands of types of mold. Mold spores travel through the air around us every day. Once these spores settle, they can reproduce in 24-48 hours. All they need is a moisture and oxygen. Bathrooms and showers provide the perfect breeding ground for mold to grow.

Unlike mildew, which forms on surfaces, mold is a fungus that can penetrate porous materials. If you see black or green gunk in the corners of your tiles and caulking or dark spots along walls, you probably have mold.

Molds carry health risks, especially for people with acute illnesses and compromised immunity. We’ll show you how to clean mold in showers to avoid these health risks. We’ll also give to tips for preventing mold in your bathroom and your home.

What Kind of Mold is in Your Bathroom?

Molds come in three different classifications:

Allergenic:  Causes an allergic reaction or asthma-like symptoms.Pathogenic: Harmful to people with acute illness or compromised immunity.Toxigenic: Dangerous or even deadly to everyone.

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to tell different kinds of mold apart. Black mold in showers could be Stachybotrys – the most toxic “black mold” – but it could be Alternaria or Aspergillus, two common household molds.

You can have your mold tested to determine what variety it is, but the CDC recommends treating all molds as harmful. It’s best to remove and clean any mold as quickly as possible.

8 Steps to a Mold-Free Shower

To fully get rid of black mold in your shower, orange mold in your shower and mold in shower grout, use a cleanser specifically designed for mold. While bleach is often touted as the best way to get rid of mold, it doesn’t fully address the problem. Bleach is good at removing mold stains and surface mold, but it doesn’t kill fungus that has soaked in.

If you prefer not to use a commercial detergent, you can create a 1:1 solution of hydrogen peroxide and water or white vinegar and water to kill deep-rooted mold.

You will need:

CleanerSpray bottleRubber glovesCleaning clothScrub brush with stiff bristlesToilet paper or paper towelBleachVinegar

To perform a thorough cleaning, follow these steps:

Spray down all affected areas of shower with detergent or cleaning solution.Let soak for 20 minutes-hour.Apply rolled paper towel or TP in cracks and along tub rim to keep cleanser soaking against mold.Scrub vigorously with brush.Rinse and wipe with clean water.Scrub any stained areas with bleach.Rinse and wipe.Spray with white vinegar and let dry.

The final step is a preventative. White vinegar inhibits mold from growing and will reduce the chance of mold returning to your shower.

If you have significant mold growth or are worried that you have toxic mold, consult a professional remediator. Don’t take on large mold projects yourself.

Never paint or caulk over moldy walls/ cracks. You won’t stop the mold from reproducing or being a health risk. Replace old moldy caulk with new, mold-resistant caulking.

 Remove Mold from Shower Head

Shower heads inevitably build up with mineral deposits and sometimes mold. If you’re wondering how to clean all those small nozzle holes, here’s a trick.

Put a 1:1 solution of white vinegar and water in a plastic bag. Place the bag over your shower head and seal it shut with rubber bands. Let your shower soak in the solution overnight. The next morning your shower head will be like-new and, best of all, mold free.

How to Prevent mold in Showers and Bathrooms

The best way to get rid of mold is to prevent it from being able to form. Follow these practices to limit mold from growing in your shower.

Turn on an exhaust fan or open a window when showering.Keep humidifiers at 50% or less.Clean your bathroom often with mold-killing products.Fix leaks, drips and other sources of moisture.Change air filters frequently.Don’t leave wet towels or laundry on floor.Spray vinegar on shower walls regularly to prevent mold growth.

By keeping a dry, clean home, you significantly limit mold’s ability to grow. Regular bathroom cleaning and maintenance means no ugly dark stains on tile or grout.

Plumbing Issues Related to Bathroom Mold

If you have mold in your bathroom from leaky pipes, bad drains or drippy faucets, Mike Diamond can help. If you’re in Los Angeles or the surrounding area, schedule service with a certified plumber to evaluate and repair your plumbing issue today.

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