You just woke up and you’re about to brush your teeth. You stick your brush under the tap, turn the water on, and… a stream of brown, cloudy mush drizzles out.  Rust colored water isn’t normally harmful but it can be disturbing.  The causes can range from corroded pipes to mineral build up to utility company operations.

Seeing your home’s tap water turn rusty is a traumatizing experience, especially if you don’t know why it’s happening. That’s why we put together this primer to explain why your water is rusty looking. If the reason for your home water discoloration is rusty pipes, we’ll explain what you can do about it. We want all Los Angeles residents to have clean, safe drinking water in their homes.

What Makes Water Brown?

Tap water looks rusty brown, yellowish, or reddish when it contains an excess of sediment or minerals.

The most common discoloring minerals present in water are iron and manganese. Tiny metallic deposits of these minerals can get into the water stream via several different sources – natural or manmade. These minerals can also be responsible for any unpleasant tastes or smells your water might have.

Is Rusty Water Dangerous?

It depends on the particular minerals in your water, but probably not. The EPA regulates the treatment of drinking water contaminants according to primary and secondary standards. Dangerous contaminants like lead and arsenic are covered by the primary regulations. If these contaminants exceed a maximum contaminant level in a water supply, it (usually) isn’t supplied to the public.

The secondary EPA regulations cover contaminants like iron and manganese. These contaminants aren’t dangerous to health but taste, smell, or look bad and could stain clothing or cause skin rashes. Public water systems are compelled to test for primary contaminants on a regular basis but testing for secondary contaminants is unfortunately voluntary. Rusty water might be gross and inconvenient, but it’s not actually dangerous to drink or bathe in.

Why Is My Water Brown?

Any of the following symptoms could cause brown water from the faucets in your home. Diagnose your water problem using these three common scenarios:

If all your hot and cold water suddenly goes brown:

It may be the result of a nearby break in a city-operated water main or fire hydrant. Much of America’s plumbing infrastructure is outdated, so water main breaks that release sediment into the water supply happen frequently.

It’s also possible that either your water heater or your water supply pipes have become rusty or corroded, and you’re just now starting to see the effects.

If only your hot water is discolored:

Sediment or rust may have built up in your water heater’s tank.

If you get brown water from your cold tap and only certain faucets:

The problem is probably with a particular water supply pipe.

How To Fix Reddish Brown Water

Now that you have an idea of what caused your rusty water discoloration in the first place, you know where to start:

If all your hot and cold water suddenly goes brown:

Call your water supply company. Chances are, something happened to a water main or a nearby fire hydrant. It’s also possible that the city is conducting maintenance on the pipe system, and they inadvertently stirred up some sediment. They should be able to tell you when your water will clear up again and what they’re doing to fix the problem.

Once the utility work is done, run your taps for a few minutes until you no longer see orange water coming out of your faucets. Brown water in toilets should disappear after a couple of flushes refresh the water supply.

If all your hot water is discolored:

Try draining and flushing your water heater’s tank. Rusty hot water is often the result of sediment that’s built up over time. It’s a good idea to drain and flush your tank twice a year. Sediment buildup isn’t just bad for your water; it’s one of the most common causes of water heater leaks.

If you flush the tank or have a newer water heater and your hot water is still off-colored, you may have a more significant problem. Call a professional plumber to diagnose the issue. Too much sediment buildup could permanently damage your water heater, or (in rare and extreme circumstances) cause it to explode!

If your cold water is only discolored when it comes out of a few faucets:

Start by running those faucets at full pressure for about several minutes or until the water clears completely. Sometimes, a small amount of rust may dislodge from the inner walls of a pipe and enter the water supply. If the problem is that minor, simply running the water should clean out the rust and clear the water again.

If your water still looks rusty after running it, however, or if the problem returns shortly after you flush the rust, it may be because your pipes have corroded. When too much corrosion or rust builds up on the pipe walls of your home’s water supply pipes, then minerals will leach into your water constantly, and you will continue to have brown water from your cold tap.

If you have a corroded or rusted pipe, you should have it deep cleaned or replaced ASAP, before it causes even more serious problems.  Corroded pipes can lead to clogs and possible leaks or breaks in your water line.

Get Rid of Brown Rusty Water in Your Home

If you’ve tried everything and remain frustrated by rusty water coming from your tap, remember that Mike Diamond has your back. Give us a call, and we’ll diagnose why your faucets are spewing out that ugly brown stuff and make sure your pipes are transporting clean, clear water to you and your family.

Nobody in Los Angeles should have to shower in–much less drink!–rusty water. We’ll make sure you never have to.

The post What to Do if Your Tap Has Rusty Water appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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Traditional water heaters look like large metal cylinders and are usually located in your basement or closet. While tankless water heaters are becoming more popular, this blog will focus on the workings of the more common traditional tank water heater.

Your water heater performs an important task that you probably don’t often think about. It supplies warm or hot water to all parts of your home for hand washing, showers, dishes and more. How is it that you have hot water at the turn of a knob? We’ll cover the water heater parts that make it happen and what to do if your hot water heater is not working the way it should.

Water Heater Anatomy

The two most common types of water heaters in US homes are the traditional electric and gas models. These two varieties have many of the same elements with the primary difference being their power sources. Their major components include:

Water tank. This stores the hot water until it’s needed at a faucet or appliance. Tanks come in different sizes depending on the amount of hot water needed. Most tanks are lined with a thin layer of glass. Transport your new water tank carefully to avoid cracking or breaking it.

Dip tube. This is the cold-water pipe that supplies new water to the water heater. As hot water exits the heater at the top, the dip tube replenishes the water supply at the bottom.

Hot water outlet. This is where hot water leaves the tank to travel through your home’s plumbing.

Thermostat. Like the thermostat for your home, your water heater’s thermostat regulates the temperature of the water. When the thermostat senses cold water at the bottom of the tank, it activates the burner or heating element to warm the water.

Drain valve. At the bottom of your water heater is a hose connection and valve. Use this to empty your tank once a year to prevent sediment build up inside the tank. Consult a professional if you’re unsure how to drain your water heater.

TPR valve. Water heaters have a temperature pressure relief valve near the top. This valve will open if the tank experiences excessive pressure or heat within. It prevents your water heater from exploding.

Internal anode rod. This rod attaches at the top of your tank. Like a magnet, it attracts the corrosive elements in your water so that they don’t eat away at the tank walls. Depending how corrosive your water is, you may need to replace your anode rod every few years.

Electric vs Gas Water Heater

The way in which your heater heats water depends on whether it is powered by electricity or natural gas. Below we explain the differences.

Electric water heaters

In addition to the parts above, electric water heaters also contain:

Heating element. This is a metal loop inside the tank. It’s powered by an electric resister and controlled by the thermostat. When electricity travels through it, it becomes hot and heats the water.

Electric water heaters have a thermostat mounted flush with the outside of an internal tank. This thermostat constantly senses the internal temperature of the tank. If it senses the temperature getting too low, it activates the heating element inside the tank. The tank’s internal heating element heats up the water stored in the tank. The heating works the same way an electric range heats up a pot of water. Once the water reaches the set temperature, the thermostat cuts off power to the heating element.

Gas water heaters

Additional parts that make up a gas water heater include:

Burner. The burner sits at the bottom of a gas heater. When the water inside the tank needs to be heated, a flame ignites from a pilot light. It’s essentially like heating a water kettle on a gas stove.

Vent Flue. This is a hollow “chimney” through the center of the tank. It vents the exhaust from the burner to the outside.

Thermocouple. This is a small rod beneath the burner. It senses if the pilot light is on and sends a signal to the burner to activate. If the pilot light goes out, the water heater thermocouple prevents the gas valve from opening and leaking gas into your home.

Gas water heaters have a thermostat just like electric ones do. The thermostats in gas water heaters contain a mercury sensor in the tip alongside a thermocouple. The thermocouple monitors the pilot light and the mercury sensor monitors the internal water temperature.

When the temperature inside the tank gets too low, the thermostat sends a signal to the gas control valve. This valve checks in with the thermocouple to make sure the pilot light is on. If it is, the valve opens and allows gas into a burner, igniting a flame. This flame heats the water. Once the water in the tank heats to the preferred temperature, the gas control valve closes again. The exhaust from the burner travels through the flue vent and safely outside.

How to choose the right water heater for your home?

Start by checking out our helpful guide! We’ll cover everything you need to consider when choosing a new water heater. That includes the right type, fuel, efficiency, and tank size to fit your needs.

How do I best maintain my water heater?

Make sure your drain the tank regularly to clear out any sediment build-up. If you don’t, sediment buildup in the tank will make the heater far less efficient.Set the water heater thermostat’s temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit or less. If you ever leave home for an extended period of time, consider turning the temperature down before you leave.Always keep an eye out for pooling water around the base of the heater’s tank. Catching small leaks before they become big ones will help save you a lot of money and trouble.

Los Angeles Water Heater Repair and Installation

If your water heater is leaking or you’re interested in upgrading your to a more energy efficient water heater, give the team at Mike Diamond a call. Our experts can help you choose the right make, model, and size for your home. Not only that, but we can install as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The post The Anatomy of Your Home’s Water Heater appeared first on Mike Diamond Services.

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Have you ever wondered where your home’s electricity comes from? It’s a bigger question than you might realize! Every one of LA’s electricity-using structures connects to our gigantic, state-spanning, billion-dollar power system. Your humble home is one end of a story spanning hundreds of miles and involving thousands of people.

The Electrical supply Los Angeles uses every day is nothing short of an engineering miracle. We’ll give you the shocking truth about where the power that runs your coffee machine every morning comes from. Enjoy Mike Diamond’s guide to the Los Angeles electrical grid.

Who Makes Los Angeles’ Power?

The Los Angeles Department of Water and Power (LADWP) supplies all the power LA uses every day. The LADWP is the nation’s largest municipal utility. 9400 employees help manage an electrical system capable of generating over 7,880 megawatts of power. Overall, the LADWP power system supplies an average of over 26 million megawatt-hours of electricity to LA every year.

The LADWP was established in 1902 to deliver water to LA. In 1916, it also began distributing electricity. The LADWP is managed by five-member Board of Water and Power Commissioners selected by the mayor of LA and confirmed by City Council.

What Generates All of L.A.’s Power?

According to the California Energy Commission’s 2019 report, California generates its electricity via these means:

0.12% coal16.53% large hydro42.97% natural gas8.06% nuclear0.02% oil0.20% Petroleum/waste heat2.92% biomass5.46% geothermal2.67% small hydro14.22% solar6.82% wind

California is a national leader in renewable energy production. Every part of California–including LA–is quickly scaling up how much renewable energy it uses. The state hopes to get 50% of its electric power from renewable sources by 2030.

To accomplish this goal, the LADWP is in the process of implementing the Power Strategic Long-Term Resource Plan (SLTRP). The SLTRP is a 20-year plan for aligning LA with Senate Bill 350 and LA’s 100% clean energy initiative. As part of this plan, LA will eliminate coal as a power source, decrease natural gas use, incorporate more renewable energy sources, and more.

Where The Los Angeles Electric Company Gets Its Power

The LADWP gets the power it supplies to LA from many sources, both inside and outside of California. You may be surprised to know that your electricity comes from Arizona, Utah, Wyoming and Oregon. These sources include:

Hydro plantsNatural gas power generating stationsLandfill biogas converting stationsHydroelectric damsSolar plantsWind plantsGeothermal plantsNuclear power generating stations

All of these power sources are connected to LA via a massive transmission and distribution infrastructure. Moving and distributing LA’s power requires:

3,507 miles of overhead transmission circuits (across five states)124 miles of underground transmission circuits15,452 transmission towers6,752 miles of overhead distribution lines3,626 miles of underground distribution lines160 distributing stations21 receiving stations128,693 distribution transformersand more

Overall, 15,000 miles of power lines and cables are required to transport and distribute LA’s power!

How Electricity Gets to Your Los Angeles Home

This infographic explains the high-voltage journey electrical power makes to get to your home.  We break down the steps in further detail beneath the graphic.

‌Phase 1: Transmission

1. Plant to “Step Up” Substation

Each of LA’s many power generators connects to a transmission substation (sometimes called a power plant).

Transmission substations “step up” the voltage to prepare the power to travel long distances through the transmission grid. Whenever an electrical current is conducted through anything (like transmission lines), it loses some power to electrical resistance. The higher the voltage of the electricity in the transmission line, however, the less electricity resistance wastes. By “supercharging” the generated power’s voltage, transmission substations make sure it gets to you without losing its effectiveness.

2. First Substation to Transmission Network

After converting low voltage power to very high voltage power, substations send electricity into transmission circuits. These circuits run from the transmission substation near the plant all the way to local distribution substations in your city. A single transmission line can successfully conduct electricity for up to 300 miles.

There are two types of transmission circuits:

Overhead circuits transmit electricity over long distances. They’re supported by the giant steel transmission towers you’re probably familiar with.

Underground circuits are used in high-density, urban areas where there’s no room for transmission towers. LA uses 124 miles of underground circuits.

Phase 2: Distribution

3. Transmission Network to “Step Down” Distribution Substation

Your power has already traveled hundreds of miles via the transmission lines to reach your area. Before it can enter the distribution grid, however, it must pass through another substation. Instead of charging up the electricity with more voltage, these transformers remove voltage to make it safe for distribution.

After passing through the transformer, electrical power enters a “distribution bus.” The distribution bus splits the power off into multiple different directions. LA uses 160 distributing substations to transfer its electricity into distribution.

4. Second Substation to Distribution Network

By now, your power is almost to you. After passing through the “step down” transformer and bus at the substation, power enters the local distribution network.

LA’s distribution networks is, as you can probably imagine, massive. The city uses 6,752 miles of overhead and 3,626 miles of underground distribution lines. These lines crisscross all over the city to supply power to every single connected structure.

5. Distribution Network to You!

Once the distribution line reaches your immediate area, it connects to a distribution transformer -either supported on overhead poles or buried underground.

Distribution transformers “step down” the amount of electricity running through power lines one more time. This process brings the electricity’s’ voltage down to around 240 volts, to make it safe for residential use.

This stepped down electricity travels via your home’s service wire from the distribution transformer all the way to your home’s meter box. The meter box records how much electricity is entering your home and the voltage of that electricity. Electricity passes through the meter box and into your circuit breaker, where it’s distributed throughout your home via your electrical panel.

‌Electrical Contractors in Los Angeles

By the time electricity reaches you, it’s had quite the journey. If you have questions about your home’s power supply or are concerned about the amount of electricity powering your home, fill out our quick and easy service form. One of Mike Diamond’s licensed technicians will be happy to make sure your family gets the power it needs to live comfortably.

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A loose or wiggly toilet handle can be annoying. A toilet handle not flushing at all is even worse.

Luckily, a loose toilet handle is a minor toilet problem and one that’s usually easy to fix. Here’s how you can fix a broken toilet handle, either by tightening or replacing it.

How to Tighten a Toilet Handle

Close the toilet seat cover.Keep parts or tools from falling in.

Remove the toilet tank cover.Use two hands as it may be heavy and set it on a flat surface where it won’t fall or crack.

Shut off the water supply to your toilet.The shut-off valve should be located near the base towards the back of your toilet.

Press the toilet tank lever to empty the water from the tank.This allows you easier access to the inside of the handle.

Find the toilet handle nut.It will be on the inside of the porcelain wall adjacent to the handle. This is probably the source of your loose toilet handle.

Tighten the toilet handle nut.Use an adjustable wrench or pliers clockwise to ensure the nut fits snuggly. Do not over-tighten – it could cause your porcelain tank to crack.

Depress the toilet handle to test.If it feels and sounds better, well done. If not, read on to learn how to replace a toilet handle.

Turn water supply back on.Turn the shut-off valve counter clockwise to open. Your tank will refill.

How to Replace a Toilet Handle

Determine what hardware you’ll need for your toilet lever replacement. Most hardware stores sell universal toilet handles, but you may need a specific variety. Look up your existing brand name, model, and make to see what type of flush handle replacement will work.Close the seat, remove the tank lid, turn off the water and empty the tank. (See 1-4 above.)Look inside the tank and unclasp the chain clip that’s attached to the lever. This is a small chain hooked onto the inside portion of your toilet handle.Remove the mounting nut. This is the same nut you would have tightened in the first walkthrough up above. Use a wrench or pliers to unscrew the nut (counter-clockwise) and take it off. Pull the old handle out. Once the nut and chain holding it in place are removed, you can pull it out by hand. You might have to angle it a bit to get it out, but that’s normal.Unscrew the mounting nut on the new handle nut, but don’t lose it. The nut may be metal or plastic.Insert the new lever into the tank to match the position of old one. You’ll know it’s in right when the handle is flush with the side of the tank. Secure the handle from inside the tank with the new mounting nut.

Attach the chain to one of the holes in the lever. There are usually a few to choose from. You want around one inch of slack in the chain so that it flushes properly. Try a few of the different holes in the lever until you find the right length.Turn the water back on and test it out. It should flush easily, without rattling.

Congratulations! You now know how to install a toilet handle.

By following these steps, you have hopefully fixed or replaced your loose toilet handle.

If your toilet handle broke or keeps coming loose, get in touch with Mike Diamond. We’ll diagnose the problem and make sure your toilet is working properly. No matter what your toilet question, Mike Diamond – your trusted LA plumber – has the answer.

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